HIMACHAL AND LADAKH ADVENTURE PART 5 TABO

We left Kalpa early in the morning heading to Tabo, covering a distance of 163km. Distance has no relevance on our adventure, as the time taken between two points is very much determined by the road condtion rather than the distance. 

Road Work In Progress Owing Rock Slides

 

The Long Winding Road Up The Mountain

Arriving at Spiti Valey, Welcomed By Gallant XIXI ITBP Force

The Indo Tibetan Border Police is a multi-dimensional security force that is responsible for Tibet Autonomous Region border patrolling, illegal immigration & anti smuggling, and also provide iintelligence and security for the region. This unit was established after the Sino-India war in 1962. They have been trained in civil medical management, disaster management, including nuclear, biological, and chemical disasters. This unit has been part of UN Peacekeeping mission namely in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Sierra Leone, Haiti, Afghanistan, Sudan and Western Sahara. 

The Khab Bridge

The first pit stop was at the Khab Bridge, where the confluence of River Sutlej and River Spiti occurs. This place is also known as the Khab Sangam. The Spiti river comes from the Kunzum Range of the Himalaya, while the Sutlej originates from Lake Rakhshastal from the West of Mount Kailash, Himalaya. 

Kumar has Found the Toilet

I guess since this place has become a tourist spot, someone had decided to set up a Chai stall. Not too sure whether it is an approved business premises or not, but business was indeed brisk.

Yes, Toilet It Is

Sadly the waste from the toilet goes directly into the river. But then again that was the only toilet on sight after an ardous 3 hours of drive. 

The Puppy Enjoying The Fuss

Greeja found this puppy basking in the sun, and decided to give it some attention, and the puppy definitely welcomed the attention. Had ginger tea at the Chai stall and we continued our journey.

Our first itinerary halt was at Nako, a small village located at an elevation of 11893ft (3625m) nestled in the Hangrang Valley. Nako lies within the restricted zone near the Tibetan border, hence an Inner Line Permit is required to travel to this place. As foreigners we had to apply for it in advance, otherwise locals can obtain it from Shimla, Kaza or at Rekhong Peo.

Just to let you guys know since we were travelling near security zones, there are many police check points that we had to pass, where the police verify and record our details before allowing us to pass through. As much as it sounds like a formality but this protocol shows the seriousness of the situation in the areas we visited. 

The Nako Hamlet

Tha Nako Lake

This lake has a particular significance to the Buddhist, as it is believed that Padhmasambava also known as Guru Renpoche who was instrumental in the establishment of Vajrayana (Tantric) Buddhism in Tibet, had meditated at this lake. His footprints believed to have embedded at the end southwest of the of the lake is venerated by Buddhist.

Dhaba for Lunch

Traditional 'Roti" Making Stove

By then all of us were dead hungry, and the above Bodh Dhaba was the closest, and we went straight for our comfort food, vegetarian Maggi instant noodles. Nothing like have a hot bowl of soupy noodles on a cold hungry afternoon.  By the way in these part of the world it is also pronounce as 'Maajee' mee. *Note: I am not being paid for promoting this brand😄

After lunch our journey began to our final destination for the day....Tabo. I was dead sleepy and my head was dancing to the whims of the road. Looked behind, Greeja and Kumar were knocked out, Baldev was holding the fort with his camera, though occasionally he nodded off too. 

Main Entrance to The Tabo Monastery

The Main Stupa The Kalachakra Stupa at Tabo Chos Khor Monastery

We arrived at this little village called Tabo located right smack in the Spiti Valley, a little past four in the afternoon. Tabo is located in a very arid and rocky terrain at an altitude of 10010ft (3050m). This region was originally part of Tibet. This monastery is known as the Ajanta of the Himalayas because of the painted murals and sculptures that adornes the inner walls of the monastery. (Unfortunately no photographs were allowed within the sanctum). This monastery was established in 996AD by the famous Tibetan Buddhist traslator Rinchen Zangpo. Currently this monastery is under the purview of Archaeological Survey India (ASI).

The Old Monastery Outer Wall

Another View of The Old Monastery

It was almost closing time when we entered the complex, however the care taker was kind enough to allow us extra time within the old monastery complex. As I entered into the shrine/meditation sanctum of the monastery, I had this strange feeling of being transported to another dimension. I was drawn to sit down, and I closed my eyes, and allowed this feeling to sink in. I had this beautiful experience, that I wasn't able to explain. The vibration of this place was extremely strong. 

Various Chorten (Stupa) Located at The Old Monastery

Another Chorten View

There are a total of 23 Chorten at This Complex

This monastery is considered to be the oldest continuosly operating Buddhist centre in India as well as within the Himalayan region. The old monastery is built using a mixture of clay and straw, and this practice has not changed todate.

A New Structure With a Giant Spinning Wheel

The Kalachakra Temple

In 1983 the Kalachakra Temple was built to commemorate the first Kalachakra initiation carried out by the 14th Dalai Lama His Holiness Gyalwa Rinpoche. Later in 2009 the Kalachakra Stupa was built. Kalachakra refers to the "wheel of time", which is a gospel that expounds external reality, internal reality and the enlightened reality, within the precepts of Tantric (Vajrayana) Buddhism. 

The Kalachakra Stupa 

Had a good sleep the night before, and the next morning Greeja and I woke up at 6.00am, and headed straight to the Kalachakra Temple, where we heard this beautiful Tibetan chanting going on. We actually sat outside the temple verendah, not knowing whether we were allowed to go in, since the monks were deep into their chanting. Then a senior monk gestured for us to come in and join them. The chanting was soothing and brought calmness to our state of mind. As the monks were served tea at the end, we were also offered the same, felt blessed.   

Greeja and I at The Wooden-Brass Doorway of the Old Monastery

Thus ended our adventure at Tabo with an experience that we would carry for life. After breakfast and of went, heading to KAZA.

...........to be continued.

ravivarmmankkanniappan@1616130820223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

 

HIMACHAL AND LADAKH ADVENTURE PART 4 KALPA

Our journey continued, and today on 5th day we were heading to Kalpa. Kalpa is a quaint village located at the bank of Sutlej River, where the entire area is covered with apple trees. Unfortunately for us,it was just fruiting and harvest is only in September. At an altitude of 9710ft, the view was simply breathtaking. 

As much as Himachal Pradesh is an all year round tourist destination, the same cannot be said about Kalpa; a hidden gem that receives little tourists. Except for bikers, we did not see any Tempo load of tourists. So we had Kalpa village pretty much to ourselves. 

The Road To Kalpa

A Typical Village Home

First stop was visiting the Narayan Nagini Temple, which is located right smack in the middle of the village. This temple is built with the Tibetan Architecture motive, which typically expounds the Kinnauri craftmanship.  

At The Entrance to To The Narayan Nagini Temple

Narayan Nagini Temple Architecture

The Kathaunni Architecture At Best

A Single Wood Block Resembling A Crocodile

Temple Roof With Himalayas on The Backdrop

Another Single Wood Block Carved Resembling a Tiger

Nagini Wood Carving Adorning The Temple Wall

The Narayan Nagini temple is said to be more than 5000 years old and has its significance rooted in the Mahabharatha. Interestingly the women of Kinnaur district have been practicing  polyandry from time immemorial. Doesn't it ring a bell? The resemblance of the story of Draupadi who shared the 5 Pandava brothers in the Mahabharatha. 

The Gathering of Women of Kalpa

So happen on the day we were there, the local women had their "Panchayat" (village council) meeting. You guys must be wondering where are all the men, well .... this is a matriarchal society, hence its womens power. It all adds up now don't you think?

The Ladies insisted I Pose With Them

But Greeja Got A Hug From Them

Next stop was the Chandika Devi Temple, which has it's own history. Legend has it Chandika Devi is the daughter of the mighty Asura Banasura, She is considered to be a powerful Goddess the protector of the Kinnaur Valley. 

The Chandika Devi Temple Entrance

Kalpa Village at The Backdrop of the Temple

Chandika Devi Temple Pond

The Main Tower of The Chandika Devi Temple

The arhcitecture of the temple uses the shikara concept where the superstructure is made of slated stone in an inverted cone fashion. This temple also houses a chariot that has a gold deity of Maa Chandika Devi. Locals also address the Goddess as Shuvang Chandika. The Dakreini Festival is considered to be the second most important fair in the Kinnaur Valley, which is dedicated to Goddess Chandika Devi. In early days this temple also witnessed animal sacrifice, which has been banned since. The temple priest welcomed us and performed a simple pooja and we obtained the blessing of Maa Chandika Devi before leaving the temple complex.

Hu Ba Lan Kar Monastery

The last stop for the day was the Hu Ban Lan Kar Monastery. It was a daunting walk to the monastery, since the distance to the monastery was from where the above photograph was taken. However the walk was interesting as we had to meandre through the quaint village, occasionally bumping into friendly villagers. This monastery was founded by Rinchensang Po between 950 AD - 1055 AD.

A Closer Look at The Monastery

Greeja Spinning The Prayer Wheel 

A Stupa at the Monastery

Along came the post box

We were not able to go into the monastery as it is closed to visitors after their morning prayer . But the walkabout itself was very enlightening.

The Way To The Monastery

A Buddha Shrine Along The Way

A doorway To A Village Home

Stones are the basic Foundation of all Buildings

A Homestay In The Midst of the Village

An Alley

A Smaller Wooden Dwelling

It was one tiring day, perhaps the total distance walked would have been at least 15km. Walking in a high altitude was no easy feat, but everything we experienced that day was new to us, hence the exitement overwhelmed our state of mind, downplaying our physical discomfort. 

At a Local Chai Stall

Nothing like a hot Ginger tea after an exhilerating day. On the way back to our hotel, we stopped by at chai stall to sooth our dry throat, and give warmth to our already chilling body. Back to the hotel, had a scrumptious dinner, where we were accompanied by a large group of bikers from Delhi. 

Head hit on the pillow and the next thing I remember waking up to the sunshine on our face, it was 5.30am, looking forward to another exciting day........ to TABO our next destination.    

ravivarmmakkanniappan@2230020820223.0567° N, 101.5851° E