PONNIYIN SELVAN: IS RAJA RAJA CHOZHAN A HINDU KING?

 

PS-1

(PS-1 movie poster courtesy, Madras Talkies & Lyca Productions)

Vetrimaran is a product of a socio-political agenda, Kamalhaasan is a product of his own confusion. But then again thanks to people like them, more archaeological scholars and experts who have done research on culvert inscriptions are coming forward to present their findings in public domain. This is totally discrediting and exposing the skewed narratives of the so- called champions of communism/atheism in the name of Dravidam. 

With the advent of social media, the hypocricy and treachery of the hidden agenda has been exposed. People both in Tamil Nadu and India as a whole are no longer buying this story anymore. People behind this hidden agenda have become alarmed of the of rise in knowledge and spirituality of India. So these Trojan horses are working extra hard to create confusion and tension within the layered fabric of  society. Sadly it did not work for Ponnian Selvan (PS)1- the movie. Instead it gave the movie an extra boost, plus the sales of the 5 volume PS-book  by Kalki has soared not only in India but also in other parts of the world where Tamilians live. 

One must remember and take note that  Kalki Krishnamurthy Ramaswamy was a freedom fighter first, hence his PS is written within that narrative. Basically he promoted unity in diversity and not divide and rule. 

Though this book was written 68 years ago, and after its hype in the 50's and 60's, that story collected dust for a long time. But with the production of the movie PS-1 and later PS-2, more young people have started to read this book, both in Tamil and English, This trend is gaining a wider reach, and people are revisiting the source rather than the ostensible narrative of people with specific agenda. 

With access to data/information people have started to look at alternatives and not buying wholesale any that seem popular. It appears that the more a story is popular, the more it casts doubt on the minds of the internet savvy generation. More are questioning past narratives. For example Gandhi was championing the emancipation of the untouchables whereas Ambedhkar was focusing on a casteless society. Both are dealing with the same problem but their approaches are totally on the opposite pole. 

Today Tamil Nadu politics seems to be have been caught between Dravida narrative and politics for survival. Periyaar today is but a symbol that has lost its philosophical relevance but is kept alive with multiple interpretation by various agendas. 

The tide has changed, the fear has grown, the minions are pushed, but any act out of desperation would fumble.

What is in a name?  "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet".

ravivarmman@1310111020223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 8 SARCHU

We were told that today would be a cold drive to Sarchu. It is a 146km drive, but as you all know it is not about the distance but the road conditions and traffic. Our first stop for the day will be at the Suraj Tal lake.

Suraj Tal Lake 

It was freezing cold when we arrived at the lake. I should have brought a thermometer to check the temperature. It was a narrow passage way for vehicles to pass through, but it was made worse by vehicles stopping by to view the lake. 

Kumar checking out the temperature.

The melting snow 

Beautiful sight of the surrounding mountains

Suraj Tal Lake

This lake sits at an altitude of 16040ft (4890m) and runs through about 2600ft (800m). This lake is also known as the Tso Kamtsi or Surya Tal. This is considered to be one of the highest glacial lakes in India and the source of the Bhaga river. It is 3rd highest lake in India and 21st highest in the world. 

The narrow road

Busy bypass

Watch out for the glacier on the left

This was the first time we were passing through in between glaciers. The army had cleared the road of the ice so that vehicles could pass by. At some places the glacier walls rose up to 20 feet, it was indeed scary yet exhilarating. 

Roadside toilet 

If you wondering how this toilet works, well you will have to go into this stacked stone structure, and pull up the zinc sheet (on the foreground) to act as your door.  

The Crew taking a break at a roadside Dhabba

Bikers who travelled all the way from Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh

In our journey we met many people, some on short travel and others on a long road trip. But it was interesting to chat up with them, exchanging experiences and sharing travel tips. 

The Baralacha La Pass

We arrived at the Baralacha La Pass just about 12.00noon. The Baralacha La (Pass) sits at 15910ft (4850m) at the Zanskar range. Baralacha means the "pass that many roads meet", and connects Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh. This is a point where 3 mountain ranges meet, ie. Pir Panjal, Zanskar and the Himalayas. It was a sight to behold. The Baralacha La pass is also a starting point to many treks, the most popular one being trekking to Suraj Tal.

Our Camp Site 

We finally arrived at our destination, Sarchu. It was sunny with bright skies, but cold though. We started looking for our camp site. This would be our first camp experience on our trip. We were told that ours would be a deluxe camp. The word deluxe, sort of made us imagine, fully padded camps with heater, and some basic amenities. Boy, were we in for a surprise when we walked around our campsite.

Our Deluxe Tent

 

Our beds for the night

Attached bathroom and toilet

My bed broke midway

It was an interesting real estate property, a bungalow with attached bathroom/toilet and furnished. Only that my bed has seen better days (or nights). Thank God it broke during the day, I would have dreaded if it had happenend at night. By the way these tents are only put up during summer, and by October they  would be dismantled, because snow would set in and this place would be totally immersed, and become impassable and inhabitable due to heavy snow. 

A dhabba near our camp site.

Our restaurateur

The dhabba doubles up as accommodation for some travellers

Being hungry, we headed straight to a nearby dhabba, and was feted with cheese sandwiches and hot chai. This dhabba also provides accomodation to travellers. According to our host, he says most of his guests are bikers. He charges between 350 rupees to 450 rupees for a night's stay on his dhabba which has a tarpaulin roof, and stone wall as your headrest, and with no heater.

The road less travelled

Ooops, spoke too soon

Waiting to cross safely

Sarchu also known as Sir Bhum Chun, is midpoint in the Leh-Manali Highway, which demarcates the border between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Hence Sarchu is a pitstop for most travellers including truck drivers. 

Landcape at Sarchu

The afternoon was spent walking about absorbing the stupendous landscape at Sarchu. I really felt like an amoeba looking at the wonder of nature.

A panoramic view

The valley

The Master watching over the disciple building a Cairn

It was getting cold as the evening approached. I think, whilst exploring,we would have walked a good 5km out from our camp site. We were told by the camp host that dinner would be ready by 7.00pm. So we hurried back to wash up before dinner. Wait a minute,  I think it was more a rub-down rather than wash, because the water was icy cold. I forgot to mention that there were no hot water for shower nor to even wash our faces. 

Cheers to Jameson before dinner

Dinner at the dining tent

Dinner, under the circumstances, was fine and we tucked into steaming rice, chapati, chicken curry, dhall, Baigaan (Brinjal masala) and Aloo (potato) vindaloo. Downed with hot coffee and tea. A good meal on a cold night. The temperature was getting colder, and Greeja and I  just wanted to jump into our bed. 

Just to make sure Greeja and I were prepared for any eventuality, we rubbed ourselves cold balm, especially on our chest and feet. We also saddled ourselves with multi-layered clothing to make sure we were warm, since the camp did not have a heater. We were given a thick blanket with an equally thick comforter. 

All prepared for a lunggi night

It has been a practice for Greeja and I to go to the toilet once middle of the night or early morning. That was an experience that we would never forget, because we had to undo all of layers before descending to the toilet bowl, and the howling, freezing wind entering via the opening around the tent definitely did not help. Mind you, lights go off at the campsite at 10pm. Luckily we had brought torchlights and we had to grapple with same whilst doing the 'deed'. By the time we were done,  and heaped the clothing again, it was round two of getting warm. It was one of the most uncomfortable moments in our life. Greeja went into slumber immediately after she hit the pillow. 

As I was about to doze off, I heard this strange sound from the outside. First I thought it was the sound of the howling wind, but it did not sound like that at all. Remembering we are also in the land of the snow leopards, my heart sank at that moment, thinking, what if. But from my reading earlier on the species, I know they won't wonder at night. Then I thought about Baldev and Kumar who were in the next tent. Could they be having any problem?. I braved myself in the freezing cold, and went over their tent to check on them. Both were fast asleep and were snoring to glory.  

By the time I returned to our tent, my fingers had become stiff and numb I had to rub more balm to genrate heat. I looked over at Greeja, and in a moment, I panicked. There seemed to be no sign of her breathing. Mind you we were at 13783ft (4201m). I leaned over and put my ears to her nose and to my great relief, she was ok, breathing but rather shallow. After that my sleep was disturbed, I think I dozed off at about 4.30am or so and woke up at 6.00am when the sun was shining brightly, right through our tent.

During breakfast we were told that the temperature had dipped to minus, an unsual phenomenon in summer they said. 

  

 

Back on our trail

Hitting another destination

After a satisfying breakfast we were up and moving onto our next destination, Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Our driver Vicky had to end his journey at Sarchu, and we were picked up by Lotus, our  guide and Tundup, our new driver.

So we had to say "sayonara" to Himachal Pradesh, and look forward to Ladakh.

ravivarmmankkanniappa@1827081020222.5035° N, 102.8208° E

HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 7 KEYLONG

Up at 6.30am, and today will be a long journey to Keylong and our first stop will be the Chandratal Lake, located at Spiti, part of the Lahaul Spiti district.

The Journey Ahead

We started our journey hitting on a winding dirt road. By now all of us were already quite used to the road conditions. I guess our bones have already adjusted to the bumpy winding road, and sometimes when I am in semi dozed state, my body seem to dance independently to the movements of the Tempo Traveller. 

Narrow stretch

Road to oblivion

The landscape

Stopped to take in the Sight

The above looks like a terrain from the Grand Canyon. Certain stretch of the road today was rather straight and narrow. Hardly saw any traffic, except for the occasional trucks moving goods, preparing the region for the coming winter. 

At a village dhabba

After 3 hours on the road, the stomach was already growling, and nothing would do justice then to make a pit stop at a local dhabba (eatery) at one of the villages we were passing through. Hot parotta with dhall (lentil) & dhehi (yogurt), downed with hot chai, for everyone, and I went for coffee. 

Typical scene of a child being carried by a woman

This lady was having a conversation with the owner of the dhabba whilst we were having our breakfast. Women here are at ease moving around with child or saaman (goods) on their backs. I wonder how they do it. At such an altitude, when even to walk briskly seemed to be an effort for us. 

Back to the road

One of the many bridges we had to cross

Saw this place where cows were grazing

Today we are passing the part of Spiti where the river Chenab cuts through the landscape. This river originates from the Lahaul valley. 

The view of the Valley

Another view of the valley

Grassy part of the valley

Wondering how this river had cut the landscape to be what it is

Arrived at Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass)

Kunzum La or Kunzum Pass is the highest motor-able mountain pass in Himachal Pradesh, located at an elevation of 14,931 ft (4551m). This pass is also the gateway to the Lahaul Spiti valley. 

The shrine of Kunzum Devi at Kunzum La

Kunzum Devi with the Blackstone on the foreground

All vehicles passing the Kunzum La would circumambulate the temple for blessings before they proceed either way of the pass. Another interesting ritual that takes place in this temple is that, at the main sanctum there lies a black stone, which can indicate whether one is a saint or a sinner. All one has to do is to try to place a coin on the stone, if the coin sticks to the stone, then one is a saint, otherwise the person is sinner. I think I know who I am, hence didn't think I needed any confirmation from Kunzum Durga Devi Ma.

The Bara Shigri Glacier

The Kunzum Devi Temple (Durga Ma)

The Bhara Shigri Glacier

Did you know that the Bara Shigri glacier is the second longest glacier on the planet. One can get a 360 degree panoramic view of the Chandrabhaga range from the Kunzum La. It was indeed a breathtaking view, and we just felt terribly small whilst absorbing this wonder of nature. Something about this place, felt very mysterious. Greeja and I sought blessings from Kunzum Durga Ma for a safe journey. 

A damaged road owing to melting glacier

Goats grazing

A sheep dog keeping watch over its flock

This shot was to capture the montains on the background

 

The sheep dog obliged Greeja for a pic

 

The shepherds' shack

This is one of the harshest places in the world, and shepherds who roam this landscape, bring their sheeps from one grazing land to another. The above shack is made by stacking rocks one on another, and uses tarpaulin canvas as its roof. These guys must be really fit, sleeping in these extreme temperature, where at night the mercury readings can dip to sub- zero.

Mountain Goats

These fellows were crossing the road

The highlight of the day was the Chandra Taal (Chandratal Lake), located at an elevation of 14,100 ft (4300m). But before we took the walk to the lake which was located about 5km from where we parked our Tempo, it was time for some hot Magee mee and ginger tea. Nothing fancy, but just a shack with hot noodles and chai. Instant noodles have been our comfort food throughout our journey. By the way this shack also doubles as accomodation for travellers who may want to rough it out for the night. It appears to be a favourite mode for bikers.

Magee Mee time

The weary feet

Greeja heading to the lake

Kumar is almost there

The sight of the lake

The Chandra Taal

Me at the lake

The water was as blue as Greeja's sweater

It was indeed a sight to behold. The water was pristine clear blue in shade and it changes colour according to the movement of clouds in the sky. Chandra Taal means Moon Lake. It got it's name owing to the fact that it is crescent -shaped. The lake is only accessible during summer, otherwise it is frozen in other seasons. The backdrop of the lake is the Chandrabhaga mountain range.

According to the Purana, Lord Indira descended upon this lake to bring Yudhishthira (the eldest of the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharatham) to Heaven. Further it is also believed that fairies descend on this lake during night time. The story of Gangrup a shepherd, who married a fairy is a popular folklore amongst the people in the valley. 

Another mystery that this lake possess is that its source of water. Although the source of water is from the Baralacha Glacier, but the mystery is no one one really knows how the water actually gets there, perhaps an underground water table. According to bathymetric survey, the deepest point is at the south western part of the lake at a depth of 42.53m.   

Built a Cairn for my late Pappa

The lake exhuberated positivity, and the feel was very energizing. I built a "Cairn" for my late father and sought blessings from him. Throughout my journey the memory of my Pappa was very intense. It was as though he was travelling with me. There were times I got very emotional, overwhelmed by thoughts of him. Somehow I felt that this was 'the' place I should let him go. I had this sense of calmness and felt a feeling that all will be well. I know he will always be with the family as a beacon and source of inspiration to all, and most of all his grandchildren. The experience I felt was very new to me, but I kind of liked it. 

The day ended in Keylong with a good night's sleep. Looking forward for tomorrow......SARCHU....

ravivarmmankkanniappan@0120190920223.0567° N, 101.5851° E