I attended a friend’s son’s wedding in Taiping last Saturday, a joyous
occasion filled with laughter, warmth, and celebration. As the festivities drew
to a close, our friend Selva mentioned a heritage gem located nearby, the
Antong Coffee Mill. Intrigued by the promise of history and tradition, we set
off without hesitation, eager for an unexpected adventure. What awaited us was
not merely a visit, but a journey through time.
The moment I stepped into the coffee complex, it
felt as though I had crossed the threshold into another era. The rich,
intoxicating aroma of roasted beans hung in the air, welcoming me like an old
friend. Standing proudly at the entrance was the famed Changchun Villa, a
silent witness to history and once home to one of the remarkable figures
connected to the founding of the Republic of China. Its presence lent an air of
reverence and mystery, inviting us to uncover stories long preserved within its
walls.
Founded in 1933, Antong Coffee Mill is
officially recognized as the oldest coffee mill in Malaysia still in operation.
Nestled in Taiping, Perak, the factory is a living museum that has faithfully
preserved its traditional wood-fired roasting methods for more than ninety
years. Established by Mr. Tiah Ee Mooi and now managed by the third generation
of his family, Antong stands as a testament to dedication, resilience, and
heritage. The compound itself holds layers of history, Tiah rented Changchun
Villa in 1933 before purchasing it two years later, and the coffee mill was
originally built from the villa’s stables.
The villa once served as the residence of Chen
Cuifen, often remembered as the “Forgotten Revolutionary Female” and the
devoted partner of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the Father of Modern China. It is believed
that this tranquil residence became a strategic planning ground for anti-Qing
revolutionary activities in the early 1900s. Born in Hong Kong in 1873, Chen
Cuifen played a crucial yet understated role in the 1911 Xinhai Revolution. For
more than two decades, she supported Sun Yat-sen through exile and hardship, managing
logistics, transporting weapons, and tending to wounded soldiers during their
time in Japan and Malaya. Despite her unwavering dedication, her contributions
were often overshadowed in official histories.
After the establishment of the Republic of
China in 1912, Chen Cuifen settled in Malaya, where she lived independently.
She adopted a daughter named Sun Rong and engaged in business ventures,
including establishing a rubber plantation. For a period, she resided in
Taiping, at a villa now adjacent to Antong Coffee Mill, where it is said that
Sun Yat-sen himself once stayed. Standing there, surrounded by echoes of
history, it was impossible not to feel a profound sense of awe.
As I continued my exploration, I had hoped to
witness Antong’s famed traditional production process firsthand. Unfortunately,
we arrived too late in the day, as the roasting can only be observed in the
morning. Though I missed the spectacle, the lingering aroma of coffee and the
preserved machinery allowed us to vividly imagine the time-honoured craft.
In the
early hours, beans are roasted in wood-fired ovens fuelled by recycled timber
and mangrove logs, imparting a distinctive smoky fragrance that defines
Antong’s signature brew. The celebrated double-roasting technique then
transforms the beans into a bubbling mixture blended with sugar and margarine,
creating a rich, caramelized essence. Once cooled, the hardened mass is
manually smashed into fragments before being ground into fine powder. While
modern methods are now employed for efficiency, the preserved mill stands as a
living exhibit, offering a captivating glimpse into the meticulous
craftsmanship of the past.
The experience was nothing short of enchanting. Visitors are free to observe
the roasting process, explore the artifacts housed within Changchun Villa, and savour
complimentary coffee samples in the air-conditioned showroom. Antong’s
signature Kopi O remains a timeless favorite, while contemporary offerings such
as Durian White Coffee, espresso ice cream, and specialty golden coffee
showcase its evolution through the decades.
It was truly a journey that captured the
passage of time. The old coffee mill stands as a proud testament to the
enduring legacy of Nanyang-style coffee. Though the historic machinery now
rests as a silent exhibit, the entire complex is permeated with an irresistible
coffee aroma that evokes nostalgia and wonder. The Changchun Villa, now
transformed into a museum adjoining the café, offers a stirring glimpse into
the past. Knowing that Dr. Sun Yat-sen and Chen Cuifen once lived and planned
there made the experience exhilarating, sending goosebumps down our spines.
If
you ever find yourself in Taiping, do not miss the opportunity to visit Antong
Coffee Mill. Pause for a cup of its aromatic brew, wander through its storied
halls, and immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of history. It is more than a
destination, it is an adventure through time, where every sip tells a story and
every step echoes with the legacy of those who shaped the future.
Cheers
ravivarmmankkanniappan@2057120420263.0567° N, 101.5851° E
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