Heading to Kaza today, a distance of 47.9km, but enroute we are making a detour to Dhankar Monastry and Mudh Village.
Donkeys on Our Path,
Pondering About Its Future, I Guess
Shepherd and His Flock
The Shepherds Terrain
Today I am not going to say much, let the pics to do the talking. We were at the remotest and harshest part of the Pin Valley.
Kumar was Brave Posing With a Dzo
Dzo is an animal that is a cross between a cow and a yak. Dzo's are Tibetan hybrid that are stronger and larger than either a yak or cows, hence it is very suitable as beast of burden in this harsh enviornment. Typically used by Mt Everest base camp trekkers to haul their gears up.
The Majestic Himalaya at the Backdrop
A Bridge Not Too Far
If You are Wondering, It was Swaying
Entrance To Dhankar Gompa
Scenic View Going Up The Mountain
Shichilling Village located below the Dhankar Gompa
Another view of Shichilling Village
Dhankar Monastry
There are five different halls, with the top most called the Lhakhang Gongma, which is a small chapel decorated with the Sakhyamuni, Tsongkhapa and Lama Chodrag (all are Buddhist Gurus or Karmapas). There is also a lake further up at 13,500ft from the monastry about 2.5km away, which is known to be a scenic spot, but owing to time constraint, we did not venture there.
Greeja and The Huskies
The Sakya Abode
As I was coming down we met this Canadian couple who were also visiting, but mainly were there to do trekking at the Bhapa pass. I was tickled when the couple said when they passed by the meditation catacomb where I was sitting closed eyed, they thought I was in some kind of deep trance. We also found out that they are based in Tamil Nadu, in the city of Madurai, where the husband is engaged in research work, and she is an English scholar.
We had our chai after the climb down from the Gompa at this cafe. Very refreshing especialy the ginger lemon tea. I must say that at 12,774ft (3894 meters), your limbs get tired very quickly. With altitude, we had to be extremely cautious not to overexert ourselves.
A Cafetaria at the base of The Gompa
Next stop Mudh Village, a distance of 50.8km, and with the road conditions it took us more than 2 hours to reach. But no complaints, because the view was simply out of this world.
Pin River Tributary
Pin River Tributary
It's just another Wow, Looks Like an Alien Nation
Pin River Tributary
Grand Canyon, Definitely Not
Finally arrived at Mudh Village, a small hamlet at the Pin Valley. Traditionally Mudh village is a base for trekkers who are heading to the Pin Parvati Pass or to the Bhapha Pass. Further, Mudh Village is also the gateway to the Pin Valley. This village is located at an altitude of 12,139 ft (3700meters), which has a cluster of about 40 homes.
A Typical Home at Mudh Village
A Pathway at Mudh Village
Just imagine living in this neighbourhood
With that backdrop
The Farm at Mudh Valley
Villagers here depend on farming, especially during summer, but up till now tourism is playing a pivotal role in the economy of this village. Many homestays have come up here, cashing in on tourist, and contruction of new ones seem to be brisk.
Another view of The Farm
Work In Progress
A Primary School In The Village
These friendly huskies have travelled from Chandigarh, a good 538km to Mudh Village, and their travel has just begun. They belong to a young gentleman who has embarked on a road trip with his friend and the dogs.
We arrived at our Hotel in Kaza, The Sakya Abode just about evening. Tired, yes, but was full of enthusiasm anticipating what awaits us tomorrow. We were staying over at Kaza for 2 nights.
A Pic With Our Hotel Manager
We were particulalarly impressed with Parmar Thakur, our hotel Manager in attendance. This young man gets up at 6.00am in the morning and hits the pillow at well pass 12.00midnight. Despite the long hours, he is always cheerful, ready to assist, and definitely made our stay a warm one. I would say he is a rare gem in this very competitive hospitality industry. With a good break, this chap can definitely go very far.
The next day after breakfast we headed straight to the cluster of 3 villages, Langza, Hikkim and Komik. Amongst the 3 villages, Langza is the highest, at 14500 ft. As we were passing Komic Village we saw three ladies waving at our Tempo to stop. We asked our driver Vicky to stop and enquire, apparently these ladies were teachers heading to their school in Hikkim Village. Regularly the headmaster gives them a lift, but today he had to go away for a district level meeting at Kaza, hence they were waiting for any passing vehicle to get them there. We obliged and they were very thankful for our gesture.
Greeja and The Teachers
Hikkim Village was the highlight of our visit here, because Hikkim hosts the highest post office in the world at an altitude of 14,567 ft (4400meters)
Hikkim Village
The Post Office Building
The Tourist Sign Board
Opening Hours
Outside The Post Office Counter
Tourist Buying Stamped Postcards
It was indeed a fascinating scenario, with the world moved on a digital platform, you still have snail mail, operating full force in this remote village. Interestingly, it has been almost ritual, where tourists actually send postcards or letters from this post office. We just bought stamped postcards as souvenirs.
Next stop was the Key monastry, the biggest Buddhist learning centre in the Spiti Valley located at an altitude of 13,668 ft. It is another Monastry that is more than 1000 years old. Founded by Dromton, the famous disciple of Guru Atisha in the 11th century, is a 3 floor structure tipped on the mountain side.
Enroute Key Gompa
Key Gompa From Afar
Key Gompa Entrance
Couldn't resist the view at the back
(Enroute The Gompa)
Met The Abbot
Today this Monastry houses more than 120 Monks and Novices, belonging to the Tibetan sect of Gelugpa (also known as the Yellow hat Sect). This monastry performed its Kalachakra ceremony in the year 2000 under the auspicious grace of the Dalai Lama. This monastry can be considered touristy, as tourist come here to have experience breathtaking views from the monastry. This monastry is also known for its ancient murals, rare Thangkas, ancient weapons and ancient musical instruments. By the way this monastry does not provide accomodation nor eateries for travellers, so don't go there hoping for any. Kaza will be the best bet.
A Panoramic View From Key Gompa
The Spiti River from Key Gompa
Our final destination for the day was Kibber Village, located about 6.7km from Key Gompa, located at an altitude of 14,010 ft (4270 meters).
The Chicham Bridge
To get to Kibber we need to cross the Chicham Bridge which is considered to be the highest bridge in Asia. It is at a height of 13596 ft, and has a 1000 feet drop gorge below called the Sambha Lamba Nalla. This bridge was completed in 2017, after a span of 15 years, which cuts the travel time between Kibber and Losar by 40km.
Kibber Village
Women at Work In The Fields
They are indeed Women of Substance
As we were heading to Kibber, we saw women at work in the farm. They were a friendly lot. Where are the men? I guess hybernating somewhere.
Girls filling water from underground bore
Did you know that despite bordering the Himalayas, Himachal Pradesh is a water starved state. Even as we speak the latest news indicates shortage of clean drinking water in many parts of Himachal Pradesh.
Kibber Village
Kibber Village Dwellings
Having Chai While Enjoying the View
Nothing like having a nice cup of coffee after a long, gruelling, but an exciting day. Unfortunately unlike their chai, the coffee has a lot of room for improvement. So used to 'Madras Kaapi', the coffee up north in Himachal taste rather tame.
Back to Sakya Abode for the night at Kaza, and our adventure continues tomorrow, next stop KEYLONG......
ravivarmmankkanniappan@020029082022 3.0567° N, 101.5851° E
