A Deepavali Without Pappa

This was the first Deepavali, without my Pappa. In fact we are not celebrating Deepavali this year, since it has not been a year yet, since my Pappa's passing. Amma did not want to be at home during Deepavali, neither were we, it was indeed too soon, too much of a memory to bear.

So we decided to go to Melaka, not too far, just did not want to get caught in the long weekend traffic, which has become a norm in Malaysia.

This morning was like any other typical morning but woke up in Melaka. Got up, had bath, minus the oil bath ritual of Deepavali. We can't perform nor carry out any of the Deepavali tradition, including making murukku or any other sweet meats that requires frying during the bereavement period.

Sri Anggala Amman Temple 

Nevertheless, performing prayer at the temple was not a problem, hence Amma, Greeja, Dhivyaa and I prepared to go to an Amman Temple. I wanted to experience the traditions practised by the Melaka Chitti (Melaka Indian Pernakan) community. So we decided to head to the Melaka Chitti village where the Anggala Parameshwari Amman Temple was located. It has been a tradition back in Segamat, we visit the Amman temple to offer prayers and seek blessing from Mother Shakti, in the morning of Deepavali. So visiting the Anggala Parameshwari Amman Temple felt like continuing this tradition.

We had a warm welcome at the temple by the temple President and members of the Chitti community who were already congregated there. They instantly knew that we were not locals. They even offered Amma a chair to sit on during the Pooja, but Amma politely declined it. 

Temple Well

Greeja and I had this serene feeling as we entered this unconventional temple. Why unconventional because the temple architecture did not fit the traditional Indian Temple architecture. In fact the entire structure is like a 17th century Portuguese architecture, And yes, but why not? According to the Temple president,  it is estimated that the building was built in 1720, by the Melaka Chitti community. 

If you are wondering who are the Melaka Chitty's (not to be confused with the Chettiyaar community), they are also known as the Melaka Indian Peranakan. They are Indian's who have intermarried local Malays and arriving Chinese who had settled in Malaya during the early 15th century, when Melaka (Malacca) was under the reign of the Melaka Sultanate and later the arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch and the British. They are a unique community, in that they had assimilated Malay culture but are Hindus by religion.

Language , food and dressing are very much elements that have been synergized with the Malay value system, For example, the Chitty language also known as Chitty Creole is the culmination Malay, Tamil and Chinese. The community was at its peak during the Portuguese era, but during the British colonisation, many went into agriculture. The Chitty community mainly resided in the area between Gajah Berang and the Tranquerah locality in Melaka.

The Inner Sanctum of the Temple

The temple President gave us a short history of the temple and the community that has been the guardian of 5 other temples in Melaka together with 13 other shrines called Grama Kovil (Village shrines) in Melaka. 

A single temple priest rotates in performing pooja for the 3 temples within the Chitty Village, and we had to adjourn to the Kailasanathar Temple (Shiva Temple) to give our offering (Archanai). All 3 temples including the Muthu Mariamman Temple are located just about 50 meters of each other. 

Since it was Deepavali after our prayer offering, we were feted with Kesari (semolina sweet meat), idli with chutney & sambar, and coffee. 

The second level before the inner sanctum

Though we did not celebrate Deepavali this year but, the very fact we went to this temple somehow made us feel complete. The serenity of the temple, the warmth of the people made me feel a sense of belonging, and somehow eased the pain of missing my Pappa.

Greeja and I would definitely make the trip to Melaka on April, 30th next year to particapate in the Sri Muthu Mariamman Temple annual festival, which would see the procession of their 300 year old wooden chariot. 

As much as this year's Deepavali was not celebrated  by our family but the spirit of Deepavail prevailed in our psyche.

Whether it was celebrated because of the victory of Rama over Raavana, Krishna & Satyabhama over Narakasura or even the triumph of Vamana over Mahabali, the message is the same, Deepavali is a festival to reflect on one's own ego and arrogance, transforming the mind and body to be righteous.          

Pappa had left us with profound wisdom, and great memories, I fervently believe the next generation in the family whose lives Pappa had impacted would continue the legacy he left behind.         

ravivarmmankkanniappan@1738241020222.1896° N, 102.2501° E

from BEARDO's kitchen Plantain Kootu

Today we are going to look at how to prepare Plantain Kootu (dry fry) or Tamizh, வாழைக்காய் கூட்டு. Thank you to Bavani for bringing the plantain all the way from Kuantan, and also thank you to Nesa for sharing it with us. If you are wondering what is the difference between plantain and banana, well plantain has thicker skin, less sweet and much more starchy. Plantains are good to make savoury dishes. The most common dishes out plantain will be fried plantain chips or Plantain bajji (battered & deep fried)

But today we are not going to do any of them, instead I am going to share with you Plantain Kootu (dry

fry). As usual lets follow the picture trail for the recipe.

From the the top, plantain, asafoetida, moong dhall, dried chilly, tamarind paste, mustard seed, chopped plantain and coriander seeds. You can also use chana dhall (கடலை பருப்பு) instead of moong dhall (பாசிப் பருப்பு). By the way, I forgot to display a very important garnish ..... curry leaves, so you will need them too.

For garnishing and taste you will need jaggery and desiccated coconut. It will be good if you use fresh coconut lightly dry roasted. Otherwise you can also use the commercially packed desiccated coconut, like the above.

Lightly shave the skin of the plantain and chop them into cubes. As you chop soak in water misxed with salt and tumeric, like below. This is to make sure the plantain do not oxidize and turn dark, plus tumeric and salt will be a good source for marination.

Leave the above soaking for about 20 - 30 minutes, then strain the water out and transfer it into another pot. Add water, 2 to 3 table spoon of moong dhall, tamarind paste and 2 teaspoon of asafoetida, and boil the concotion till the plantain and moong dhall becomes tender. The reason I added asafoetida is to reduce the "angin (gas) effect that can cause flatulence to some. Water should be just as much to tenderise the plantain, otherwise too much water will make the plantain soggy. You can also use pressure cooker to do this job, it would be done in a jiffy. Once done it should look like below.

Meanwhile dry roast the dried chilles, coriander seeds, 2 - 3 tablespoon of moong dhall, a pinch of cumin and fennel seeds. Transfer it to a blender, add desiccated coconut and dry blend the entire ingredients. 

Don't blend it fine, leave it a little coarse. 

Ok we are raedy to cook. For this preparation, I am using gingerly oil. Not only it gives a rich taste but the aroma is fantastic too. Once the oil is heated, add mustard seed and allow it to crackle.

Then add the blended ingredients and stir well

Then transfer the tendered plantain and stir will. Make sure the tempered ingredient blends well with the plantain. You can add jaggery at this point, and also add salt to taste. Jaggery, salt and tamarind will give a tangy taste to our prep.

Sprinkle curry leaves and stir well so that the aroma seeps well into the plantain.

Almost done, take a table spoon full of ghee place it in the centre and allow it to simmer gradually into the plantain dish. By the time you serve it the plantain would have absorbed the ghee. 

Viola ....... your plantain kootu is ready to be served. It will go best with rice and chapati too. 

So everyone, do try it out and let me know. It is one of the simplest dish to prepare but has great taste. 

ravivarmmankkanniappan@2231191020223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

PONNIYIN SELVAN: IS RAJA RAJA CHOZHAN A HINDU KING?

 

PS-1

(PS-1 movie poster courtesy, Madras Talkies & Lyca Productions)

Vetrimaran is a product of a socio-political agenda, Kamalhaasan is a product of his own confusion. But then again thanks to people like them, more archaeological scholars and experts who have done research on culvert inscriptions are coming forward to present their findings in public domain. This is totally discrediting and exposing the skewed narratives of the so- called champions of communism/atheism in the name of Dravidam. 

With the advent of social media, the hypocricy and treachery of the hidden agenda has been exposed. People both in Tamil Nadu and India as a whole are no longer buying this story anymore. People behind this hidden agenda have become alarmed of the of rise in knowledge and spirituality of India. So these Trojan horses are working extra hard to create confusion and tension within the layered fabric of  society. Sadly it did not work for Ponnian Selvan (PS)1- the movie. Instead it gave the movie an extra boost, plus the sales of the 5 volume PS-book  by Kalki has soared not only in India but also in other parts of the world where Tamilians live. 

One must remember and take note that  Kalki Krishnamurthy Ramaswamy was a freedom fighter first, hence his PS is written within that narrative. Basically he promoted unity in diversity and not divide and rule. 

Though this book was written 68 years ago, and after its hype in the 50's and 60's, that story collected dust for a long time. But with the production of the movie PS-1 and later PS-2, more young people have started to read this book, both in Tamil and English, This trend is gaining a wider reach, and people are revisiting the source rather than the ostensible narrative of people with specific agenda. 

With access to data/information people have started to look at alternatives and not buying wholesale any that seem popular. It appears that the more a story is popular, the more it casts doubt on the minds of the internet savvy generation. More are questioning past narratives. For example Gandhi was championing the emancipation of the untouchables whereas Ambedhkar was focusing on a casteless society. Both are dealing with the same problem but their approaches are totally on the opposite pole. 

Today Tamil Nadu politics seems to be have been caught between Dravida narrative and politics for survival. Periyaar today is but a symbol that has lost its philosophical relevance but is kept alive with multiple interpretation by various agendas. 

The tide has changed, the fear has grown, the minions are pushed, but any act out of desperation would fumble.

What is in a name?  "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet".

ravivarmman@1310111020223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 8 SARCHU

We were told that today would be a cold drive to Sarchu. It is a 146km drive, but as you all know it is not about the distance but the road conditions and traffic. Our first stop for the day will be at the Suraj Tal lake.

Suraj Tal Lake 

It was freezing cold when we arrived at the lake. I should have brought a thermometer to check the temperature. It was a narrow passage way for vehicles to pass through, but it was made worse by vehicles stopping by to view the lake. 

Kumar checking out the temperature.

The melting snow 

Beautiful sight of the surrounding mountains

Suraj Tal Lake

This lake sits at an altitude of 16040ft (4890m) and runs through about 2600ft (800m). This lake is also known as the Tso Kamtsi or Surya Tal. This is considered to be one of the highest glacial lakes in India and the source of the Bhaga river. It is 3rd highest lake in India and 21st highest in the world. 

The narrow road

Busy bypass

Watch out for the glacier on the left

This was the first time we were passing through in between glaciers. The army had cleared the road of the ice so that vehicles could pass by. At some places the glacier walls rose up to 20 feet, it was indeed scary yet exhilarating. 

Roadside toilet 

If you wondering how this toilet works, well you will have to go into this stacked stone structure, and pull up the zinc sheet (on the foreground) to act as your door.  

The Crew taking a break at a roadside Dhabba

Bikers who travelled all the way from Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh

In our journey we met many people, some on short travel and others on a long road trip. But it was interesting to chat up with them, exchanging experiences and sharing travel tips. 

The Baralacha La Pass

We arrived at the Baralacha La Pass just about 12.00noon. The Baralacha La (Pass) sits at 15910ft (4850m) at the Zanskar range. Baralacha means the "pass that many roads meet", and connects Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh. This is a point where 3 mountain ranges meet, ie. Pir Panjal, Zanskar and the Himalayas. It was a sight to behold. The Baralacha La pass is also a starting point to many treks, the most popular one being trekking to Suraj Tal.

Our Camp Site 

We finally arrived at our destination, Sarchu. It was sunny with bright skies, but cold though. We started looking for our camp site. This would be our first camp experience on our trip. We were told that ours would be a deluxe camp. The word deluxe, sort of made us imagine, fully padded camps with heater, and some basic amenities. Boy, were we in for a surprise when we walked around our campsite.

Our Deluxe Tent

 

Our beds for the night

Attached bathroom and toilet

My bed broke midway

It was an interesting real estate property, a bungalow with attached bathroom/toilet and furnished. Only that my bed has seen better days (or nights). Thank God it broke during the day, I would have dreaded if it had happenend at night. By the way these tents are only put up during summer, and by October they  would be dismantled, because snow would set in and this place would be totally immersed, and become impassable and inhabitable due to heavy snow. 

A dhabba near our camp site.

Our restaurateur

The dhabba doubles up as accommodation for some travellers

Being hungry, we headed straight to a nearby dhabba, and was feted with cheese sandwiches and hot chai. This dhabba also provides accomodation to travellers. According to our host, he says most of his guests are bikers. He charges between 350 rupees to 450 rupees for a night's stay on his dhabba which has a tarpaulin roof, and stone wall as your headrest, and with no heater.

The road less travelled

Ooops, spoke too soon

Waiting to cross safely

Sarchu also known as Sir Bhum Chun, is midpoint in the Leh-Manali Highway, which demarcates the border between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Hence Sarchu is a pitstop for most travellers including truck drivers. 

Landcape at Sarchu

The afternoon was spent walking about absorbing the stupendous landscape at Sarchu. I really felt like an amoeba looking at the wonder of nature.

A panoramic view

The valley

The Master watching over the disciple building a Cairn

It was getting cold as the evening approached. I think, whilst exploring,we would have walked a good 5km out from our camp site. We were told by the camp host that dinner would be ready by 7.00pm. So we hurried back to wash up before dinner. Wait a minute,  I think it was more a rub-down rather than wash, because the water was icy cold. I forgot to mention that there were no hot water for shower nor to even wash our faces. 

Cheers to Jameson before dinner

Dinner at the dining tent

Dinner, under the circumstances, was fine and we tucked into steaming rice, chapati, chicken curry, dhall, Baigaan (Brinjal masala) and Aloo (potato) vindaloo. Downed with hot coffee and tea. A good meal on a cold night. The temperature was getting colder, and Greeja and I  just wanted to jump into our bed. 

Just to make sure Greeja and I were prepared for any eventuality, we rubbed ourselves cold balm, especially on our chest and feet. We also saddled ourselves with multi-layered clothing to make sure we were warm, since the camp did not have a heater. We were given a thick blanket with an equally thick comforter. 

All prepared for a lunggi night

It has been a practice for Greeja and I to go to the toilet once middle of the night or early morning. That was an experience that we would never forget, because we had to undo all of layers before descending to the toilet bowl, and the howling, freezing wind entering via the opening around the tent definitely did not help. Mind you, lights go off at the campsite at 10pm. Luckily we had brought torchlights and we had to grapple with same whilst doing the 'deed'. By the time we were done,  and heaped the clothing again, it was round two of getting warm. It was one of the most uncomfortable moments in our life. Greeja went into slumber immediately after she hit the pillow. 

As I was about to doze off, I heard this strange sound from the outside. First I thought it was the sound of the howling wind, but it did not sound like that at all. Remembering we are also in the land of the snow leopards, my heart sank at that moment, thinking, what if. But from my reading earlier on the species, I know they won't wonder at night. Then I thought about Baldev and Kumar who were in the next tent. Could they be having any problem?. I braved myself in the freezing cold, and went over their tent to check on them. Both were fast asleep and were snoring to glory.  

By the time I returned to our tent, my fingers had become stiff and numb I had to rub more balm to genrate heat. I looked over at Greeja, and in a moment, I panicked. There seemed to be no sign of her breathing. Mind you we were at 13783ft (4201m). I leaned over and put my ears to her nose and to my great relief, she was ok, breathing but rather shallow. After that my sleep was disturbed, I think I dozed off at about 4.30am or so and woke up at 6.00am when the sun was shining brightly, right through our tent.

During breakfast we were told that the temperature had dipped to minus, an unsual phenomenon in summer they said. 

  

 

Back on our trail

Hitting another destination

After a satisfying breakfast we were up and moving onto our next destination, Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Our driver Vicky had to end his journey at Sarchu, and we were picked up by Lotus, our  guide and Tundup, our new driver.

So we had to say "sayonara" to Himachal Pradesh, and look forward to Ladakh.

ravivarmmankkanniappa@1827081020222.5035° N, 102.8208° E