Odisha Travel 1

It was an exciting trip to Odisha or formerly known as Orissa. My fascination to Odisha circled around the Kalingan empire, followed by the Mauryan and Gupta empires. Have read the about the great Kalingan war and how Ashoka brought down this mighty empire which eventually was also the precursor for Emperor Ashoka to renounce violence and embrace Ahimsa via Buddhism. 

The Elephant Rock Where The Edict Was Carved

Hence, first on my agenda was to visit Dhauli, where this epic war took place. By 262BC the Mauryan King Ashoka's empire stretched from Baluchistan in the west to Bangladesh in the East, right up to Mysore in the south. The Kingdom of Kalinga stood n the way of his completing his expansion. Thus in the same year, Ashoka preferred war against the Kalingans, which eventually saw the death of  300,000 people, as claimed by  literature. 

Another View of The Elephant Rock

According to one account, a Buddhist monk who stood witness to this cataclysm, approached Ashoka and asked him,"King Ashoka, you have killed hundreds of thousands of people,in your quest to expand your empire, the river is flowing red with the blood fallen warriors. What did you gain by this? Would you  be able to give back the life to any of your warriors?"  

The Spot Where Once The Mighty Daya River Flowed

Apparently these words resonated deeply within Ashoka' which made him reflect and became remorseful which in turn motivated him to seek the path of Ahimsa (non violence) and upholding Dharma (cosmic law and order).

   

A View From The Dhauli Hill, Exacting The Spot Where The War Took Place

In his new avatar, Ashoka commissioned edicts to be written all over his empire renouncing violence, and promoting the Buddhist way of life. But most importantly the focus of his edicts in newly acquired territories was to build trust with the people, emphasizing just governance and the provision of equality among his subjects. 

The Edict Carved On the Stone

The edict was written in Magadhi language using the Brahmi script. Magadhi was the spoken language in the Kalingan region. Ashoka made sure that each edict was written in the local language where everyone understood its content. So therefore if one trails Ashoka's edicts all across his empire, it would have been written in different languages. Many may not know, for example Edict 13 was written both in Greek and Aramaic. Thus was Ashoka's intent, that his governance should be transparent and all his subjects should have awareness of their citizens rights. 

The Preservation of Dhauli Rock Edict

The above photo shows an enclosed area surrounding the edict, to protect it from both natural damage as well as from irresponsible visitors. Kudos to ASI (Archaeological Survey India) for keeping the entire monument and its surrounding in pristine condition.

As we drove up the Dhauligiri Hill we were welcomed by the Shanti Stupa, built between 1971-1972 by Japan Buddha Sanga with the collaboration of Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sanga and the government of Odisha. Also known as the Peace Pagoda, the entire structure is white in colour denoting peace. Four Buddha statues with different postures are placed facing four different direction. It is indeed a sight to behold.

The Shanti Stupa

Below are the four postures of Buddha that one can fine placed on the Stupa. The Dharmachakra Buddha denotes the inception of Buddhism, and the motion of the wheel of Dharma. 

Dharmachakra Buddha

The Nirvana Buddha or reclining Buddha depicts how the Buddha laid during the last few moments of is earthly life before attaining Paranirvana or ending the cycle of rebirth from his Samsara (mortal life). Note that he is depicted lying on his right side on his right arm, as it was recorded. 

Nirvana Buddha

The standing Buddha post is normally synonymous with the Buddha attaining enlightenment, Further this posture is also known as the Abhaya posture or the posture of Protection.

Abhaya Buddha

And the last posture found at the Stupa is the Dhyana Buddha, which typically depicts the days leading to the Buddhas enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. The alms bowl signifies the renunciation of the material world and its comfort.

Dhiyana Buddha

The Daya River, a view from Shanti Stupa

It was a surreal feeling looking down at the river, imagining the Kalinga War, Ashoka's repentence, and how Buddhism contributed to human thought process. 

Next to the Stupa, lies another ancient structure, the Dhavaleshwar Temple, built by the Bhauma Kara Dynasty circa 8th century CE and some scholars claim that it is contemporary to the Lingaraja Temple in Bubhaneswar (another ancient temple built by the Somavamsi Dynasty circa 11th century). Regardless this is a fully functional temple thronged by both Hindus and Buddhist alike.

The Dhavaleshwar Temple with Shanti Stupa in the Background 

Entrance To The Dhavaleshwar Temple, Guarded by 2 Lions

The Holy Basil Plant at The Entrance To The Temple

Greeja and I offered our prayers to Lord Shiva, sought his blessings for the rest of our journey in Odisha. It was indeed an experience that took awhile to sink in. Beyond the sight, it was the historical journey that we relived that made the difference.

I will continue my journal on Odisha in "Odisha Travel 2" soon.

Ravi Varmman

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Subang Jaya.