HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 8 SARCHU

We were told that today would be a cold drive to Sarchu. It is a 146km drive, but as you all know it is not about the distance but the road conditions and traffic. Our first stop for the day will be at the Suraj Tal lake.

Suraj Tal Lake 

It was freezing cold when we arrived at the lake. I should have brought a thermometer to check the temperature. It was a narrow passage way for vehicles to pass through, but it was made worse by vehicles stopping by to view the lake. 

Kumar checking out the temperature.

The melting snow 

Beautiful sight of the surrounding mountains

Suraj Tal Lake

This lake sits at an altitude of 16040ft (4890m) and runs through about 2600ft (800m). This lake is also known as the Tso Kamtsi or Surya Tal. This is considered to be one of the highest glacial lakes in India and the source of the Bhaga river. It is 3rd highest lake in India and 21st highest in the world. 

The narrow road

Busy bypass

Watch out for the glacier on the left

This was the first time we were passing through in between glaciers. The army had cleared the road of the ice so that vehicles could pass by. At some places the glacier walls rose up to 20 feet, it was indeed scary yet exhilarating. 

Roadside toilet 

If you wondering how this toilet works, well you will have to go into this stacked stone structure, and pull up the zinc sheet (on the foreground) to act as your door.  

The Crew taking a break at a roadside Dhabba

Bikers who travelled all the way from Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh

In our journey we met many people, some on short travel and others on a long road trip. But it was interesting to chat up with them, exchanging experiences and sharing travel tips. 

The Baralacha La Pass

We arrived at the Baralacha La Pass just about 12.00noon. The Baralacha La (Pass) sits at 15910ft (4850m) at the Zanskar range. Baralacha means the "pass that many roads meet", and connects Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh. This is a point where 3 mountain ranges meet, ie. Pir Panjal, Zanskar and the Himalayas. It was a sight to behold. The Baralacha La pass is also a starting point to many treks, the most popular one being trekking to Suraj Tal.

Our Camp Site 

We finally arrived at our destination, Sarchu. It was sunny with bright skies, but cold though. We started looking for our camp site. This would be our first camp experience on our trip. We were told that ours would be a deluxe camp. The word deluxe, sort of made us imagine, fully padded camps with heater, and some basic amenities. Boy, were we in for a surprise when we walked around our campsite.

Our Deluxe Tent

 

Our beds for the night

Attached bathroom and toilet

My bed broke midway

It was an interesting real estate property, a bungalow with attached bathroom/toilet and furnished. Only that my bed has seen better days (or nights). Thank God it broke during the day, I would have dreaded if it had happenend at night. By the way these tents are only put up during summer, and by October they  would be dismantled, because snow would set in and this place would be totally immersed, and become impassable and inhabitable due to heavy snow. 

A dhabba near our camp site.

Our restaurateur

The dhabba doubles up as accommodation for some travellers

Being hungry, we headed straight to a nearby dhabba, and was feted with cheese sandwiches and hot chai. This dhabba also provides accomodation to travellers. According to our host, he says most of his guests are bikers. He charges between 350 rupees to 450 rupees for a night's stay on his dhabba which has a tarpaulin roof, and stone wall as your headrest, and with no heater.

The road less travelled

Ooops, spoke too soon

Waiting to cross safely

Sarchu also known as Sir Bhum Chun, is midpoint in the Leh-Manali Highway, which demarcates the border between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Hence Sarchu is a pitstop for most travellers including truck drivers. 

Landcape at Sarchu

The afternoon was spent walking about absorbing the stupendous landscape at Sarchu. I really felt like an amoeba looking at the wonder of nature.

A panoramic view

The valley

The Master watching over the disciple building a Cairn

It was getting cold as the evening approached. I think, whilst exploring,we would have walked a good 5km out from our camp site. We were told by the camp host that dinner would be ready by 7.00pm. So we hurried back to wash up before dinner. Wait a minute,  I think it was more a rub-down rather than wash, because the water was icy cold. I forgot to mention that there were no hot water for shower nor to even wash our faces. 

Cheers to Jameson before dinner

Dinner at the dining tent

Dinner, under the circumstances, was fine and we tucked into steaming rice, chapati, chicken curry, dhall, Baigaan (Brinjal masala) and Aloo (potato) vindaloo. Downed with hot coffee and tea. A good meal on a cold night. The temperature was getting colder, and Greeja and I  just wanted to jump into our bed. 

Just to make sure Greeja and I were prepared for any eventuality, we rubbed ourselves cold balm, especially on our chest and feet. We also saddled ourselves with multi-layered clothing to make sure we were warm, since the camp did not have a heater. We were given a thick blanket with an equally thick comforter. 

All prepared for a lunggi night

It has been a practice for Greeja and I to go to the toilet once middle of the night or early morning. That was an experience that we would never forget, because we had to undo all of layers before descending to the toilet bowl, and the howling, freezing wind entering via the opening around the tent definitely did not help. Mind you, lights go off at the campsite at 10pm. Luckily we had brought torchlights and we had to grapple with same whilst doing the 'deed'. By the time we were done,  and heaped the clothing again, it was round two of getting warm. It was one of the most uncomfortable moments in our life. Greeja went into slumber immediately after she hit the pillow. 

As I was about to doze off, I heard this strange sound from the outside. First I thought it was the sound of the howling wind, but it did not sound like that at all. Remembering we are also in the land of the snow leopards, my heart sank at that moment, thinking, what if. But from my reading earlier on the species, I know they won't wonder at night. Then I thought about Baldev and Kumar who were in the next tent. Could they be having any problem?. I braved myself in the freezing cold, and went over their tent to check on them. Both were fast asleep and were snoring to glory.  

By the time I returned to our tent, my fingers had become stiff and numb I had to rub more balm to genrate heat. I looked over at Greeja, and in a moment, I panicked. There seemed to be no sign of her breathing. Mind you we were at 13783ft (4201m). I leaned over and put my ears to her nose and to my great relief, she was ok, breathing but rather shallow. After that my sleep was disturbed, I think I dozed off at about 4.30am or so and woke up at 6.00am when the sun was shining brightly, right through our tent.

During breakfast we were told that the temperature had dipped to minus, an unsual phenomenon in summer they said. 

  

 

Back on our trail

Hitting another destination

After a satisfying breakfast we were up and moving onto our next destination, Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Our driver Vicky had to end his journey at Sarchu, and we were picked up by Lotus, our  guide and Tundup, our new driver.

So we had to say "sayonara" to Himachal Pradesh, and look forward to Ladakh.

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