HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 7 KEYLONG

Up at 6.30am, and today will be a long journey to Keylong and our first stop will be the Chandratal Lake, located at Spiti, part of the Lahaul Spiti district.

The Journey Ahead

We started our journey hitting on a winding dirt road. By now all of us were already quite used to the road conditions. I guess our bones have already adjusted to the bumpy winding road, and sometimes when I am in semi dozed state, my body seem to dance independently to the movements of the Tempo Traveller. 

Narrow stretch

Road to oblivion

The landscape

Stopped to take in the Sight

The above looks like a terrain from the Grand Canyon. Certain stretch of the road today was rather straight and narrow. Hardly saw any traffic, except for the occasional trucks moving goods, preparing the region for the coming winter. 

At a village dhabba

After 3 hours on the road, the stomach was already growling, and nothing would do justice then to make a pit stop at a local dhabba (eatery) at one of the villages we were passing through. Hot parotta with dhall (lentil) & dhehi (yogurt), downed with hot chai, for everyone, and I went for coffee. 

Typical scene of a child being carried by a woman

This lady was having a conversation with the owner of the dhabba whilst we were having our breakfast. Women here are at ease moving around with child or saaman (goods) on their backs. I wonder how they do it. At such an altitude, when even to walk briskly seemed to be an effort for us. 

Back to the road

One of the many bridges we had to cross

Saw this place where cows were grazing

Today we are passing the part of Spiti where the river Chenab cuts through the landscape. This river originates from the Lahaul valley. 

The view of the Valley

Another view of the valley

Grassy part of the valley

Wondering how this river had cut the landscape to be what it is

Arrived at Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass)

Kunzum La or Kunzum Pass is the highest motor-able mountain pass in Himachal Pradesh, located at an elevation of 14,931 ft (4551m). This pass is also the gateway to the Lahaul Spiti valley. 

The shrine of Kunzum Devi at Kunzum La

Kunzum Devi with the Blackstone on the foreground

All vehicles passing the Kunzum La would circumambulate the temple for blessings before they proceed either way of the pass. Another interesting ritual that takes place in this temple is that, at the main sanctum there lies a black stone, which can indicate whether one is a saint or a sinner. All one has to do is to try to place a coin on the stone, if the coin sticks to the stone, then one is a saint, otherwise the person is sinner. I think I know who I am, hence didn't think I needed any confirmation from Kunzum Durga Devi Ma.

The Bara Shigri Glacier

The Kunzum Devi Temple (Durga Ma)

The Bhara Shigri Glacier

Did you know that the Bara Shigri glacier is the second longest glacier on the planet. One can get a 360 degree panoramic view of the Chandrabhaga range from the Kunzum La. It was indeed a breathtaking view, and we just felt terribly small whilst absorbing this wonder of nature. Something about this place, felt very mysterious. Greeja and I sought blessings from Kunzum Durga Ma for a safe journey. 

A damaged road owing to melting glacier

Goats grazing

A sheep dog keeping watch over its flock

This shot was to capture the montains on the background

 

The sheep dog obliged Greeja for a pic

 

The shepherds' shack

This is one of the harshest places in the world, and shepherds who roam this landscape, bring their sheeps from one grazing land to another. The above shack is made by stacking rocks one on another, and uses tarpaulin canvas as its roof. These guys must be really fit, sleeping in these extreme temperature, where at night the mercury readings can dip to sub- zero.

Mountain Goats

These fellows were crossing the road

The highlight of the day was the Chandra Taal (Chandratal Lake), located at an elevation of 14,100 ft (4300m). But before we took the walk to the lake which was located about 5km from where we parked our Tempo, it was time for some hot Magee mee and ginger tea. Nothing fancy, but just a shack with hot noodles and chai. Instant noodles have been our comfort food throughout our journey. By the way this shack also doubles as accomodation for travellers who may want to rough it out for the night. It appears to be a favourite mode for bikers.

Magee Mee time

The weary feet

Greeja heading to the lake

Kumar is almost there

The sight of the lake

The Chandra Taal

Me at the lake

The water was as blue as Greeja's sweater

It was indeed a sight to behold. The water was pristine clear blue in shade and it changes colour according to the movement of clouds in the sky. Chandra Taal means Moon Lake. It got it's name owing to the fact that it is crescent -shaped. The lake is only accessible during summer, otherwise it is frozen in other seasons. The backdrop of the lake is the Chandrabhaga mountain range.

According to the Purana, Lord Indira descended upon this lake to bring Yudhishthira (the eldest of the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharatham) to Heaven. Further it is also believed that fairies descend on this lake during night time. The story of Gangrup a shepherd, who married a fairy is a popular folklore amongst the people in the valley. 

Another mystery that this lake possess is that its source of water. Although the source of water is from the Baralacha Glacier, but the mystery is no one one really knows how the water actually gets there, perhaps an underground water table. According to bathymetric survey, the deepest point is at the south western part of the lake at a depth of 42.53m.   

Built a Cairn for my late Pappa

The lake exhuberated positivity, and the feel was very energizing. I built a "Cairn" for my late father and sought blessings from him. Throughout my journey the memory of my Pappa was very intense. It was as though he was travelling with me. There were times I got very emotional, overwhelmed by thoughts of him. Somehow I felt that this was 'the' place I should let him go. I had this sense of calmness and felt a feeling that all will be well. I know he will always be with the family as a beacon and source of inspiration to all, and most of all his grandchildren. The experience I felt was very new to me, but I kind of liked it. 

The day ended in Keylong with a good night's sleep. Looking forward for tomorrow......SARCHU....

ravivarmmankkanniappan@0120190920223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

BEARDO's kitchen Series : GALLANGAL CHICKEN CURRY

GALANGAL CURRY CHICKEN

Today I will cooking Galangal Curry Chicken, so from the name you guys would have guessed the main ingredient is galangal (Lengkuas in Malay, and Chitthirathai in Tamil). By the way I am using a different platform today ie, my blog. So hence forth I will posting all my recipes via my blog underthetree63.

So without further ado, lets follow the picture trail.

Ingredients

Cut chicken to your liking, but preferably varuval pieces, and then marinate with tumeric and chilly powder.

To prepare the paste, you will need galangal, onions  (preferably small Indian onions), fresh tumeric (btw the above was from our garden), garlic, dried chilly (dip it in hot water for awhile) and lemon grass (use the head only). Add a little water and blend all these items to a nice paste.

Heat Oil

As usual I prefer to use coconut oil. But you could use any oil available, but not gasoline or engine oil. Allow the oil to heat. Then add cinnamon stick and star anise.

Star Anise and Cinnamon Stick in Oil

Curry Leaves 

Next, curry leaves are added. Allow the curry leaves to crackle and immerse in the oil for a short while. Make sure you get the aroma of the curry leaves before moving on to the next item.

Enter the Chicken

Then add the marinated chicken and stir well. Allow the oil, and the tempering item to blend well with the chicken.

Last Minute Entry

Actually there were a few straggly tomatoes and carrots in the fridge, which wasn't enough for any specific dish, so I chopped it and threw them into the curry. Btw, contrary to popular belief, vegetables like carrot, beetroot, pumpkin and moringa can be used in cooking Indian meat curries. Stir well, and allow it to blend.

Enter The Paste.

Finally add the blended paste and stir well, pour a little hot water, close the lid and let the curry boil. Open the lid from time to time and stir, to allow the curry to blend well. 

The Boiling Curry.

Allow the curry to thicken, check if the chicken is cooked. Viola your Galangal Chicken Curry is ready to be served. Sprinkle chopped corriander leaves before serving.

Tried it out and let me know.

Coming up .........Himachal & Ladakh Adventure series.... next stop ....... KEYLONG.

ravivarmmankkanniappan@1613110920223.0567° N, 101.5851° E

 

HIMACHAL AND LADAKH ADVENTURE PART 6 KAZA

Heading to Kaza today, a distance of 47.9km, but enroute we are making a detour to Dhankar Monastry and Mudh Village.

Donkeys on Our Path,

Pondering About Its Future, I Guess

                  

Shepherd and His Flock

The Shepherds Terrain

Today I am not going to say much, let the pics to do the talking. We were at the remotest and harshest part of the Pin Valley.

Kumar was Brave Posing With a Dzo

Dzo is an animal that is a cross between a cow and a yak. Dzo's are Tibetan hybrid that are stronger and larger than either a yak or cows, hence it is very suitable as beast of burden in this harsh enviornment. Typically used by Mt Everest base camp trekkers to haul their gears up.

The Majestic Himalaya at the Backdrop

A Bridge Not Too Far

If You are Wondering, It was Swaying

Such suspension bridges are common sight in this part of the world, as it is the only means for people who live in small hamlets scattered here, to get by. 

Entrance To Dhankar Gompa

Scenic View Going Up The Mountain

Shichilling Village located below the Dhankar Gompa

Another view of Shichilling Village

Dhankar Monastry

The Dhankar Gompa is about 1000 years old. This Gompa is dedicated to the Great Buddhist translator Rinchen Zhangpo. This structure is multistoried, perched together on the mountain. Unfortunately photography is not allowed inside the complex. The have many catacomb like meditation halls, and in one of the halls I felt an  immense sense of euphoria come over me. I sat down and spent some time immersed in that feeling. I was in wonderment thinking how this place had hosted thousands of great souls, and merely being there I felt blessed. 

There are five different halls, with the top most called the Lhakhang Gongma, which is a small chapel decorated with the Sakhyamuni, Tsongkhapa and Lama Chodrag (all are Buddhist Gurus or Karmapas). There is also a lake further up at 13,500ft from the monastry about 2.5km away, which is known to be a scenic spot, but owing to time constraint, we did not venture there.

As I was coming down we met this Canadian couple who were also visiting, but mainly were there to do trekking at the Bhapa pass. I was tickled when the couple said when they passed by the meditation catacomb where I was sitting closed eyed, they thought I was in some kind of deep trance. We also found out that they are based in Tamil Nadu, in the city of Madurai, where the husband is engaged in research work, and she is an English scholar.  

A Cafetaria at the base of The Gompa

We had our chai after the climb down from the Gompa at this cafe. Very refreshing especialy the ginger lemon tea. I must say that at 12,774ft (3894 meters), your limbs get tired very quickly. With altitude, we had to be extremely cautious not to overexert ourselves. 

Next stop Mudh Village, a distance of 50.8km, and with the road conditions it took us more than 2 hours to reach. But no complaints, because the view was simply out of this world.

Pin River Tributary

Pin River Tributary

It's just another Wow, Looks Like an Alien Nation

Pin River Tributary 

Grand Canyon, Definitely Not

Finally arrived at Mudh Village, a small hamlet at the Pin Valley. Traditionally Mudh village is a base for trekkers who are heading to the Pin Parvati Pass or to the Bhapha Pass. Further, Mudh Village is also the gateway to the Pin Valley. This village is located at an altitude of 12,139 ft (3700meters), which has a cluster of about 40 homes. 

A Typical Home at Mudh Village

A Pathway at Mudh Village

Just imagine living in this neighbourhood

With that backdrop

The Farm at Mudh Valley

Villagers here depend on farming, especially during summer, but up till now tourism is playing a pivotal role in the economy of this village. Many homestays have come up here, cashing in on tourist, and contruction of new ones seem to be brisk.

Another view of The Farm

Work In Progress

A Primary School In The Village

Greeja and The Huskies

These friendly huskies have travelled from Chandigarh, a good 538km to Mudh Village, and their travel has just begun. They belong to a young gentleman who has embarked on a road trip with his friend and the dogs. 

We arrived at our Hotel in Kaza, The Sakya Abode just about evening. Tired, yes, but was full of enthusiasm anticipating what awaits us tomorrow. We were staying over at Kaza for 2 nights. 

The Sakya Abode

A Pic With Our Hotel Manager

We were particulalarly impressed with Parmar Thakur, our hotel Manager in attendance. This young man gets up at 6.00am in the morning and hits the pillow at well pass 12.00midnight. Despite the long hours, he is always cheerful, ready to assist, and definitely made our stay a warm one. I would say he is a rare gem in this very competitive hospitality industry. With a good break, this chap can definitely go very far.

The next day after breakfast we headed straight to the cluster of 3 villages, Langza, Hikkim and Komik. Amongst the 3 villages, Langza is the highest, at 14500 ft. As we were passing Komic Village we saw three ladies waving at our Tempo to stop. We asked our driver Vicky to stop and enquire, apparently these ladies were teachers heading to their school in Hikkim Village. Regularly the headmaster gives them a lift, but today he had to go away for a district level meeting at Kaza, hence they were waiting for any passing vehicle to get them there. We obliged and they were very thankful for our gesture. 

Greeja and The Teachers

Hikkim Village was the highlight of our visit here, because Hikkim hosts the highest post office in the world at an altitude of 14,567 ft (4400meters)

Hikkim Village

The Post Office Building

The Tourist Sign Board

Opening Hours

Outside The Post Office Counter

Tourist Buying Stamped Postcards

It was indeed a fascinating scenario, with the world moved on a digital platform, you still have snail mail, operating full force in this remote village. Interestingly, it has been almost ritual, where tourists actually send postcards or letters from this post office. We just bought stamped postcards as souvenirs. 

Next stop was the Key monastry, the biggest Buddhist learning centre in the Spiti Valley located at an altitude of 13,668 ft. It is another Monastry that is more than 1000 years old. Founded by Dromton, the famous disciple of Guru Atisha in the 11th century, is a 3 floor structure tipped on the mountain side.

Enroute Key Gompa

Key Gompa From Afar

Key Gompa Entrance

Couldn't resist the view at the back

(Enroute The Gompa)

Met The Abbot

Today this Monastry houses more than 120 Monks and Novices, belonging to the Tibetan sect of Gelugpa (also known as the Yellow hat Sect). This monastry performed its Kalachakra ceremony in the year 2000 under the auspicious grace of the Dalai Lama. This monastry can be considered touristy, as tourist come here to have experience breathtaking views from the monastry. This monastry is also known for its ancient murals, rare Thangkas, ancient weapons and ancient musical instruments. By the way this monastry does not provide accomodation nor eateries for travellers, so don't go there hoping for any. Kaza will be the best bet.

A Panoramic View From Key Gompa

The Spiti River from Key Gompa

Our final destination for the day was Kibber Village, located about 6.7km from Key Gompa, located at an altitude of 14,010 ft (4270 meters). 

The Chicham Bridge

To get to Kibber we need to cross the Chicham Bridge which is considered to be the highest bridge in Asia. It is at a height of 13596 ft, and has a 1000 feet drop gorge below called the Sambha Lamba Nalla. This bridge was completed in 2017, after a span of 15 years, which cuts the travel time between Kibber and Losar by 40km.

Kibber Village

Women at Work In The Fields

They are indeed Women of Substance

As we were heading to Kibber, we saw women at work in the farm. They were a friendly lot. Where are the men? I guess hybernating somewhere. 

Girls filling water from underground bore

Did you know that despite bordering the Himalayas, Himachal Pradesh is a water starved state. Even as we speak the latest news indicates shortage of clean drinking water in many parts of Himachal Pradesh.

Kibber Village

Kibber Village Dwellings

Having Chai While Enjoying the View

Nothing like having a nice cup of coffee after a long, gruelling, but an exciting day. Unfortunately unlike their chai, the coffee has a lot of room for improvement. So used to 'Madras Kaapi', the coffee up north in Himachal taste rather tame. 

Back to Sakya Abode for the night at Kaza, and our adventure continues tomorrow, next stop KEYLONG......

ravivarmmankkanniappan@020029082022 3.0567° N, 101.5851° E