HIMACHAL AND LADAKH PART 7 KEYLONG

Up at 6.30am, and today will be a long journey to Keylong and our first stop will be the Chandratal Lake, located at Spiti, part of the Lahaul Spiti district.

The Journey Ahead

We started our journey hitting on a winding dirt road. By now all of us were already quite used to the road conditions. I guess our bones have already adjusted to the bumpy winding road, and sometimes when I am in semi dozed state, my body seem to dance independently to the movements of the Tempo Traveller. 

Narrow stretch

Road to oblivion

The landscape

Stopped to take in the Sight

The above looks like a terrain from the Grand Canyon. Certain stretch of the road today was rather straight and narrow. Hardly saw any traffic, except for the occasional trucks moving goods, preparing the region for the coming winter. 

At a village dhabba

After 3 hours on the road, the stomach was already growling, and nothing would do justice then to make a pit stop at a local dhabba (eatery) at one of the villages we were passing through. Hot parotta with dhall (lentil) & dhehi (yogurt), downed with hot chai, for everyone, and I went for coffee. 

Typical scene of a child being carried by a woman

This lady was having a conversation with the owner of the dhabba whilst we were having our breakfast. Women here are at ease moving around with child or saaman (goods) on their backs. I wonder how they do it. At such an altitude, when even to walk briskly seemed to be an effort for us. 

Back to the road

One of the many bridges we had to cross

Saw this place where cows were grazing

Today we are passing the part of Spiti where the river Chenab cuts through the landscape. This river originates from the Lahaul valley. 

The view of the Valley

Another view of the valley

Grassy part of the valley

Wondering how this river had cut the landscape to be what it is

Arrived at Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass)

Kunzum La or Kunzum Pass is the highest motor-able mountain pass in Himachal Pradesh, located at an elevation of 14,931 ft (4551m). This pass is also the gateway to the Lahaul Spiti valley. 

The shrine of Kunzum Devi at Kunzum La

Kunzum Devi with the Blackstone on the foreground

All vehicles passing the Kunzum La would circumambulate the temple for blessings before they proceed either way of the pass. Another interesting ritual that takes place in this temple is that, at the main sanctum there lies a black stone, which can indicate whether one is a saint or a sinner. All one has to do is to try to place a coin on the stone, if the coin sticks to the stone, then one is a saint, otherwise the person is sinner. I think I know who I am, hence didn't think I needed any confirmation from Kunzum Durga Devi Ma.

The Bara Shigri Glacier

The Kunzum Devi Temple (Durga Ma)

The Bhara Shigri Glacier

Did you know that the Bara Shigri glacier is the second longest glacier on the planet. One can get a 360 degree panoramic view of the Chandrabhaga range from the Kunzum La. It was indeed a breathtaking view, and we just felt terribly small whilst absorbing this wonder of nature. Something about this place, felt very mysterious. Greeja and I sought blessings from Kunzum Durga Ma for a safe journey. 

A damaged road owing to melting glacier

Goats grazing

A sheep dog keeping watch over its flock

This shot was to capture the montains on the background

 

The sheep dog obliged Greeja for a pic

 

The shepherds' shack

This is one of the harshest places in the world, and shepherds who roam this landscape, bring their sheeps from one grazing land to another. The above shack is made by stacking rocks one on another, and uses tarpaulin canvas as its roof. These guys must be really fit, sleeping in these extreme temperature, where at night the mercury readings can dip to sub- zero.

Mountain Goats

These fellows were crossing the road

The highlight of the day was the Chandra Taal (Chandratal Lake), located at an elevation of 14,100 ft (4300m). But before we took the walk to the lake which was located about 5km from where we parked our Tempo, it was time for some hot Magee mee and ginger tea. Nothing fancy, but just a shack with hot noodles and chai. Instant noodles have been our comfort food throughout our journey. By the way this shack also doubles as accomodation for travellers who may want to rough it out for the night. It appears to be a favourite mode for bikers.

Magee Mee time

The weary feet

Greeja heading to the lake

Kumar is almost there

The sight of the lake

The Chandra Taal

Me at the lake

The water was as blue as Greeja's sweater

It was indeed a sight to behold. The water was pristine clear blue in shade and it changes colour according to the movement of clouds in the sky. Chandra Taal means Moon Lake. It got it's name owing to the fact that it is crescent -shaped. The lake is only accessible during summer, otherwise it is frozen in other seasons. The backdrop of the lake is the Chandrabhaga mountain range.

According to the Purana, Lord Indira descended upon this lake to bring Yudhishthira (the eldest of the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharatham) to Heaven. Further it is also believed that fairies descend on this lake during night time. The story of Gangrup a shepherd, who married a fairy is a popular folklore amongst the people in the valley. 

Another mystery that this lake possess is that its source of water. Although the source of water is from the Baralacha Glacier, but the mystery is no one one really knows how the water actually gets there, perhaps an underground water table. According to bathymetric survey, the deepest point is at the south western part of the lake at a depth of 42.53m.   

Built a Cairn for my late Pappa

The lake exhuberated positivity, and the feel was very energizing. I built a "Cairn" for my late father and sought blessings from him. Throughout my journey the memory of my Pappa was very intense. It was as though he was travelling with me. There were times I got very emotional, overwhelmed by thoughts of him. Somehow I felt that this was 'the' place I should let him go. I had this sense of calmness and felt a feeling that all will be well. I know he will always be with the family as a beacon and source of inspiration to all, and most of all his grandchildren. The experience I felt was very new to me, but I kind of liked it. 

The day ended in Keylong with a good night's sleep. Looking forward for tomorrow......SARCHU....

ravivarmmankkanniappan@0120190920223.0567° N, 101.5851° E